Friday, 2 February 2018

Trip report for Mera Peak Expedition in November 2017

Photo: Almas, Sona and Domenico on central summit of Mera Peak

Our Mera Peak Expedition in November 2017 was led by Almas Khan and our Nepali Sirdar was Pema Sherpa. The climbing Sherpas were Sonam and Lakpa and the cook was Sangram

On November 17th the group left Mera Peak Base Camp and made good progress up to Mera La at 5,415m. Of interest the trail to Mera La now follows the alternative route that I helped find with Domi Sherpa back in November 2012, this has less objective danger from rockfall from ridge above the old route. You can read more about this route to Mera La on our Trip Report from November 2012

On November 18th Almas, Sonam and Domenico arrived to High Camp and then in early morning of 19th set off for the summit. The group made good progress and summited the central summit of Mera Peak at 6,461m with excellent views of the Himalaya including five 8,000m peaks of Mt Everest, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse and Cho Oyu.

I would like to thank Almas and Pema for their leadership of this group and Sonam and Lhakpa and the rest of the Nepalese crew who as ever worked exceptionally hard throughout this expedition.

Our next expeditions to Mera Peak will be in April and November 2018, please get in touch soon if you would like to join one of these groups.

Roland Hunter

Wednesday, 9 August 2017

Our Mera Peak expedition in November 2017 is now a guaranteed departure

Photo: central summit of Mera Peak
The Mountain Company's Mera Peak Expedition in Nepal in November 2017 led by Almas Khan is now guaranteed to run and there is currently availability.

The Mountain Company has a long track record of organising expeditions to Mera Peak, our groups have successfully summitted the mountain on nine previous occasions please click here to read the Trip Reports from our previous expeditions

Please get in contact with us soon if you would like to join our Mera Peak Expedition in November 2017.

Roland Hunter
www.themountaincompany.co.uk

Tuesday, 22 December 2015

Trip report for Mera Peak Expedition in Nepal led by Dom Rudd and Domi Sherpa in November 2015

Photo: Summit day on Mera Peak
Our Mera Peak Expedition in November 2015 was led by Dom Rudd and our Nepali Sirdar Domi Sherpa. The climbing Sherpas were Sonam and Lakpa. Tenzing joined as a trekking guide and our cook was Parbat Rai.

On morning of 2nd the group took the flight into Lukla and after lunch started the walk to Puiyan where they stayed the first night of the trek. For the first few days of the trip there was low level cloud however there was no precipitation so the group did not get wet while walking. The six day trek into Kothe went well and by the time the group got to Chunbu Kharka the weather cleared up and experienced mainly sunny weather with wonderful views for the rest of the expedition.

On November 9th the group arrived as planned to Tagnag at an altitude of 4,360m. We include two nights at this cluster of lodges for acclimatisation and also include rope training in the morning and then followed by an acclimatisation walk in the afternoon. Domi and Sonam set up a fixed rope on grass slopes behind Tagnag and the group got all of their own climbing gear set up then had a demonstration and practice session on ascending and descending a fixed rope. These mountaineering skills are required for the steep final summit slopes on Mera Peak where fixed rope is placed by the Sherpas to protect this section of the climb.

On November 10th the group moved up to Khare (Base Camp) and on the next day they walked up to the glacier for further mountaineering training. The feedback from the group after the trip was this was a tough and tiring day to walk up to glacier especially this year as snowline was so high. In previous years we were able to do this training lower down near the disused tea shop however this year the snow line was high so it was a long walk from Khare. With future trips we will take this into account as it should be possible to do mountaineering training on the day moving up to Mera La. Also many members of our Mera Peak groups already have these skills and an acclimatisation walk from Khare might well work better for them before the climb.

Throughout this expedition we received weather forecasts from Michael Fagin at everestweather.com and we sent these onto Dom by text to his satellite phone and during our regular phone conversations. As mentioned earlier the weather was fine and sunny from Chunbu Kharka however on the forecast before their summit attempt we received a strong wind warning. Five members of the group set out from High Camp at 3am on November 15th and continued until about 6,000m when the decision was made to turn back due to high winds. Everyone in the group understood and supported this call as it was clearly too windy to proceed safely. After getting back to High Camp they continued down to Khare later that day.

This group had a day in hand as they had not used up their spare summit day so the decision was made to stay one extra night at Khare. I gather everyone had a good walk up the moraine ridge above Khare with wonderful views on a sunny day. However the winds were blasting the summit of Mera Peak with white plume visible certainly not a viable summit day!

Our next expedition to Mera Peak will be in April 2016 and Dom has confirmed would like to lead our November 2016 departure. Please get in touch soon if you would like to join one of these groups.

For client testimonials on Mera Peak and our other trips please take a look at AITO review section of their website

Roland Hunter

Thursday, 12 February 2015

Our Mera Peak expedition in late October 2015 is now a guaranteed departure

Photo: central summit of Mera Peak
The Mountain Company's Mera Peak Expedition in Nepal in late October 2015 led by Dom Rudd is now guaranteed to run and there is currently availability.

The Mountain Company has a long track record of organising expeditions to Mera Peak, our groups have successfully summitted the mountain on nine previous occasions please click here to read the Trip Reports from our previous expeditions

Please get in contact with us soon if you would like to join our Mera Peak Expedition in late October 2015.

Roland Hunter
www.themountaincompany.co.uk

Friday, 4 July 2014

Trip report for Mera Peak (Nepal) led by Steve Stout in April 2014

Our Mera Peak Expedition in April 2014 was led by Steve Stout and we had seven climbers in the group coming from UK, Australia and India.  The Sirdar for the group was Domi Sherpa and the cook was Saila Tamang.

Photo: group on summit day (Aidan Tyers)
For our expedition this April the weather was fine and settled for the trek into Mera Peak Base Camp. However after reviewing the forecast there was precipitation predicted for their summit day on April 27th so Steve made the decision to move directly from Khare to High Camp in order to beat the storm! This strategy paid off and four members of the group successfully climbed to the summit of Mera Peak.

The group set off from High Camp at 2am in two groups of three and summitted at 07.15am and then it took about an hour to get back down to High Camp. After a second breakfast the group headed down to Base Camp arriving in the early afternoon. I gather throughout the day the weather and visibility were perfect with crystal clear views of Everest and the other 8,000m peaks. Aidan sums up his experience by saying "it was tougher than anticipated but the summit was well worth it!".


Our next expedition to Mera Peak will be in November 2014 and the leader is Almas Khan, please get in touch soon if you would like to join this group.

Roland Hunter

Sunday, 22 December 2013

Trip report for Mera Peak (Nepal) led by Chris Horobin November 2013

Photo: on summit of Mera Peak
For our November 2013 expedition to Mera Peak, we had a full group of fourteen people and as usual this was an international mix with people coming from UK, Australia, Canada, USA and Italy. The leader Chris Horobin had been to Mera Peak on three previous expeditions and therefore is very familiar with the route on this mountain. Our sirdar for this expedition was Domi Sherpa and our regular cook was Saila Tamang.

Overall the expedition went well although the conditions were much colder and snowier than usual at this time of year. The summit day was a clear and sunny day although very cold with strong wind after enjoying the views from the top it is a quick descent to High Camp before continuing down to Base Camp. This year the group arrived down at Khare between 3pm and 4pm after a long but incredibly satisfying day. Well done and congratulations to the summitters!


I have copied one of the testimonials below from one member of the group with his feedback on how the trek went:

“Absolutely awesome trip! No complaints whatsoever. Great group! Chris was a fantastic leader and I would go on another trip with him in a heartbeat. Very experienced leader with a fantastic attitude. Domi Sherpa was extremely competent. Our safety and comfort was always his top priority. One of the nicest persons I have ever met! The kitchen crew did a fantastic job of keeping us very well fed and the food was great. All the other support staff were very friendly and fulfilled their duties to a very high standard. Thanks for organising a great trip!” Patrick, Switzerland

The Mountain Company is planning to organise Mera Peak Expedition in April and November 2014, please get in touch soon if you would like to join one of these groups.

Roland Hunter

Tuesday, 19 March 2013

Our Mera Peak expedition in November 2013 is now a guaranteed departure

Photo: climbing Mera Peak
The Mountain Company's Mera Peak expedition in Nepal starting on November 3rd 2013 led by Chris Horobin is now guaranteed to run. If you are interested in joining this group trek I suggest you read our Trip Dossier downloadable from our website and also the Trip Reports from our previous expeditions to Mera Peak.

Please get in contact with us soon if you would like to join our Mera Peak group in November 2013.

Roland Hunter